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old3bob, June 22 in The Rabbit Hole
2 hours ago, old3bob said:
There's sharks down there as well..."
"Once i first saw it .. i was i don't really want to surf here."
Personally speaking watching this while sitting some 150 miles inland from an ocean my toes curled on their own, hopefully not for too long! lol
Yea it looks more radical to me than the very incredible break in Tahiti called Teahupoo! Also using the words "best wipeouts" on the title page is kind of strange to me since a best wipeout (or best outcome) would be a mitigated one in my book, while most of the ones shown are not mitigated!
If "God' was these waves who would dare a ride?
I know that sometimes a surfer can get in a zone inside the curl of a wave where the power of the ocean is rushing around or at them and thus they must find and travel on a razors edge to keep from wiping out, yet in that same moment they can feel and act with a perfectly harmonious, timeless and fearless awe that overcomes any hesitation.
Sharks as well ? ...... best to just go for a dip in the shallows ....
...and a hell of a way as they say for "a drop to return to the ocean"